CARRILLO ROD INSTRUCTIONS The Carrillo connecting rod is a precision, high strength, quality connecting rod, which when properly installed and maintained, will perform flawlessly in today's racing engines. • Read the instructions furnished with the rods.
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CARRILLO RODS THE ULTIMATE STRENGTH OF MATERIALS AND
PROCESS The design is widely copied but no manufacturer can duplicate the material or process that makes Carrillo rods the strongest and best in the industry. Fred Carrillo approached the challenges of manufacturing with the idea of no compromise. MATERIAL. The perfect rod needed the ultimate material. To accomplish this Fred invented and patented his own special steel alloy. Like Coca Cola, this formula is still a secret. This proprietary chrome/nicke./vanadium steel alloy is denoted specifically as Carrilloloy in industrial lists. PROCESS. Equally important, the heat treating process is likewise proprietary. Unlike some other manufacturers, this process is strictly controlled with no shortcuts in the length of time it takes to establish ultimate strength. QUALITY. To manufacture the best, unequaled connecting rod in the industry, there would have to be uncompromising quality control. This philosophy is as evident today as it was at Carrillo's conception in 1963. Fred Carrillo, the founder of Carrillo Industries, has been deeply involved in Motorsports for most of his adult life. Although he was a noted aerospace engineer, his true passion was the mechanics of Motorsports. He is retired now but the company is in good hands and remains dedicated to the product to this day.
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HEAD GASKET SEALING AND TORQUE WARNING!!!! Late model 2.0 head gaskets need special attention when being installed on early engine blocks. The early heads drained oil at both front and rear of the cam drain oil galleries. These passages run the length of the head under the spring pockets and were open both front and rear to drain back to the sump. The rear of these passages connected to galleries in the back of the block that drained vertically and exited on each side of the rear main bearing cap. Late model heads and blocks do not have this rear oil drain feature. Therefore, as shown in these photos (click for full size), the late model head gasket does not have the bead of sealer between the water jacket and the oil gallery. With each head gasket, we supply a tube of anaerobic gasket sealer to bridge this gap (top *AND* bottom of gasket). If you are using an early block, the late model head gasket can leak water into the rear oil drain galleries and damage an engine with the resulting emulsion of water and oil. Fortunately most leaks occur during the warm up and retorque before subjected to any track time. High radiator pressure and coolant temperature exacerbate this problem during the break in period when the head gasket is seating. Most of the time the late model head gasket seals this gap and there is no problem. SUGGESTION: Remove the radiator cap for startup and warm ups prior to the hot torques. Before realizing there was no sealing bead printed on the late model head gasket, there were a number of bad experiences. In addition to the rear oil gallery receiving water, we occasionally had beads of water leaking out on the exhaust side of the head gasket. We learned to leave the radiator cap off while warming the engine up and to relieve pressure during the retorque phase of engine break in on the dyno. With no built up pressure there were no more leaks. HISTORY: Excessive torque spec in late model shop manual. As an Alfa dealer we had warranty problems with water and oil leaking out the head gaskets. At one point both water and oil leaked down sides of the block on new cars. Alfa's first attempt at a cure was to increase the torque on the head from 60.7-61.4 ft to 63-65 hot. We replaced hundreds of factory gaskets under warranty, using viton orings for the oil problem and copper coat sealer for the water leaks. We continued using the old torque specs and found that 56 cold and 60 hot was sufficient for both street and race. Any torque on the head bolts tends to distort the liners somewhat, so exceeding 60 pounds is inviting problems. We verified this using a torque plate and measuring with a dial bore gage. |
JE FORGED PISTONS We can design and special order any piston you need! We sell single pistons and pins if you damage one and need a spare. We stock spare ring sets, but unfortunately can not break sets to sell singles. GENERAL NOTES. I have proven on the dyno that our designs on the JE billets make more power. We have been working with the people at JE on our pistons since 1978 and have yet to see a documented piston related failure. My friends in the NASCAR engine business turned me on to them and I have never strayed. Through our racing engine research and on track experience we have continuously modified the designs for better performance and ease of installation. We welcome customer input and have made a number of changes by popular request. We won three SCCA E-PRODUCTION National Championships using the same 81mm pistons you can now buy off our shelf. Our customers all over the world are winning races with our pistons. All of the professional Alfa engine builders use our JE design pistons. If you are not a pro, then you will enjoy following our three page set of instructions that come with each set. If you encounter problems or have questions, I am happy to help you over the phone or by email at any time: paul@paulspruell.com. We can design and special order any piston you need Customer Testimonial...D. G. wrote: Paul,
I want to install the spare
race engine in my street GT Junior. This is a mild 2L and I read somewhere
that you can supply a flywheel to adapt it to the mechanical transmission...<snip>....On
another note we added your JE pistons to the race car this past season and
gained quite a bit. We knocked 2 seconds off our best time at Watkins. I
am impressed. [emphasis
added]
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RACE HEADERS ***Black ceramic finished headers require heating to 750º Fahrenheit to be fully cured. Therefore, after installation, please allow your vehicle to idle for ½-1 hour to complete the curing process.*** Special instructions for exhaust/tailpipe connections.. For racing applications, one should install a 2 1/2" tail pipe somewhere between 42 and 46" in length for all displacements from 1300 to 2000. It takes dyno tuning to determine the absolute best length for each engine configuration. A good rule of thumb is that the shorter pipe yields more torque and the longer more top end. My advice is to run it straight back and hang it from the standard mounting bracket on the chassis. It is a good idea to have a 45 degree bend at the end to shoot the discharge at the pavement to mitigate the sound. We furnish a set of tabs that the customer can weld on to make this connection. We also furnish a sketch of how we mount the tailpipe on our race cars with photos from my ITB Spider (see below). Sorry, but we do not offer tail pipes for sale since they are dirt cheap and simple enough for a customer to do. For street applications. Both the early and late model headers terminate forward of the standard system resonator with a single 2 3/8" collector tip pipe. To mate the headers to a stock exhaust system, a short section of pipe is required reducing the size from 2 3/8" header tip to 2" to make the union with the stock system. Any good muffler shop can accomplish this. Street systems should not use the tabs for attachment. The adapter pipe has to be welded to seal up the back pressure. Sorry, we do not sell custom exhaust systems. |
Please Call Us at (770) 457-ALFA(2532) or (800)
552-ALFA for a
full inventory of available Alfa Romeo racing parts.
Thanks!
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